Iâm really interested in what youâre doing right now and Iâm also really interested in knowing how you plan on training for all three disciplines before the September competitions. I think that does a good job of generating power when your hands are closer together, which youâre not always full span on moves while youâre climbing. I get some tendonitis so I bend my arm and that makes it not happen. Kyra Condie: I agree with it. Yeah, and itâs kind of crazy to be like, âWow, this climb felt so hard before but now I can repeat it daily, easily.â. Neely Quinn: With how much rest in between? Kyra Condie: Thatâs what I was saying with the planches and the front levers. Neely Quinn: Thatâs cool. I want to thank you for your support and thank you for listening and I hope that youâve gotten something out of these interviews. Neely Quinn: So, a couple questions about body weight and diet. My max is 1, 5. After the Shoreview native was diagnosed with severe scoliosis at age 13, she underwent spinal fusion surgery, pausing her promising start with the climbing team at St. Paulâs Vertical Endeavors. I think that climbing outside best equates to a hangboarding day, I guess is kind of what I would say. I know a lot of people have done that. Like that. Youâre not so much of a slab climber. When Condie asked if she could return to climbing, a nurse practitioner told her there were other things in life. Like on teams? Join Facebook to connect with Kyra Nancy and others you may know. Do you feel like you immediately took to it or did it take a while? Sounds like itâs really varied and delicious and you know what you need and you give it to yourself. They did a good job. I found that Nutrigrain bars are delicious. Sometimes in a really short amount of time. I think thatâs kind of where that came from. One of my biggest things that Iâve done in the past year is just trying to repeat climbs that Iâve already done, even if they were hard or especially if they werenât my style because I think thatâs really beneficial. I am not a huge fan of them. Neely Quinn: Could you take me through a finger training day? I donât think you should be doing one-arm training and I definitely donât think you should try to aspire to do what sheâs doing on the campus board. Outside sometimes, like if your hand is right next to your foot, thatâs the only time that you bend in that middle part of your back so thatâs when I notice it really. Bouldering was really well-rounded, of course. So many people have finger injuries while theyâre campusing. Then, Iâve lived through a phase and Iâve kind of stopped doing this recently and I need to restart making those rice cakes that Allen Lim, the guy who started Skratch Labs, has in his cookbook. It wasnât actually an injury. Like, you grab the first one and what can you pull through to? Thatâs another big thing. Everybody knows that. I think itâs hard to eat when youâre outside climbing and you donât even notice that youâre hungry a lot of times. Itâs in Germany somewhere. Yeah, it sounds like youâve kind of made your way around certain things. It seems like a lot of people just get an unhealthy obsession with it and it seems like thatâd be pretty easy to have that happen if you are always checking it and always noticing, âOh, Iâm climbing pretty hard right now but Iâm five pounds lighter than I normally am.â That just seems like a dangerous road to go down. Iâve spent almost no time in Hueco, surprisingly. Campusing, for me, is focused on the power and the strength part and not the finger strength part. Share to Twitter Share to Facebook Share to Pinterest. [laughs]. How do you feel about your body weight and how your body weight has affected your climbing? Say someone could only hang it for two seconds with body weight. I always laugh at people who comment on my videos, âWhenâs 1, 5, 9 happening?â Iâm like, âNot soon!â. 1.6K likes. It was my best time ever so…. Kyra Condie is a super strong climber from Minnesota who has bouldered V12 outside and frequents podiums at national competitions. Yeah, I do actually. Then I knew, and I just started sobbing. Okay, so what are you plans for – you said maybe going to Spain, youâre not sure – the next year and a half? Neely Quinn: Alright. It should be okay. The most Iâve ever done in a year, because the most Iâve ever done, is two of them. So Iâve been focusing on trying to get more protein and so I supplement. She completed her undergraduate degree in the spring of 2018, then put off veterinary school to train full-time toward the Olympics. I think as Iâve gotten older Iâve gotten a lot better at keeping tension because I still love climbing on overhangs more than anything else, but I think Iâve gotten better at it by keeping tension on footholds and grabbing worse holds and locking things off, but also being able to jump still. Neely Quinn: Itâs really surprising. She had … Since whenever I got back from traveling last summer. Climbing is totally anaerobic soâ¦. Neely Quinn: Iâm assuming thatâs how you got to 1, 5, 8 though? It sounds great. Iâm trying to like them and I do kind of but they still kind of scare me as far as foods go because I didnât like them for so long. Neely Quinn: Yeah, like mental training to have not gotten so frazzled or what do you think? I also do some strength training. What I normally do is Iâll warm up, like I was saying, to 80% maximal and then I like to do one-arm hangs. I would not say that. Neely Quinn: So do you feel like strength training helps your back? Yeah, itâs hard to do that in a regular gym. Right now Iâm focusing on kind of power and finger strength because I think those are the two main things behind bouldering, in my opinion. From what I know, whey protein is just the superior source of protein for supplements but Iâve tried both and I like them both. Iâm not an expert but itâs kind of what Iâve always told people when kids ask me what they should do. Yeah, itâs been working pretty well. That is interesting. If itâs a less good source I donât really care as long as Iâm getting enough, you know? Really like and appreciate Kyra’s detailed explanations of her training schedule. Well, thatâs all the questions I have for you, honestly. They all kind of balanced each other out so I didnât actually look super crooked. Hopefully this episode will be good in that respect and every future episode will be better. I never took a gap year after high school. Iâve always lived in Minnesota. Easy, simple, and like you said it has protein, carbs, and fat. She also can train with other elite American climbers who live in the area. He has these portable snacks. So when youâre doing doubles youâre just going up? Itâs a great way to start off the morning with chocolate chip pancakes. Kyra Condie: Yeah, I think getting stronger in bouldering definitely improved my speed climbing. Thatâs pretty intense. Neely Quinn: As a vegetarian, what kinds of foods do you eat? You can do it once in every three day cycle if you do it on the big rungs, in my opinion. Is it something where youâre kind of like, âWell, Iâm just not going to climb as much after this year,â or what are you thinking with that? It says, âYou suck. Kyra Condie: Yeah, I think I definitely could have done the second boulder. I definitely think itâs a pretty cool story and itâs one that not a ton of people know. Yeah, Iâm definitely not mad that I had to get it done. That comes with the hangboarding. Yeah, Iâve got a bunch. Itâs so much easier to get outside bouldering because you donât need to find a belay partner and swap belays. Itâs really good. Itâs crazy. When Kyra Condie was 12 years old she started standing with her hip cocked to one side, which her mother perfunctorily interpreted as the preface to “a little teenage attitude.”In fact, she was diagnosed with scoliosis and subsequently underwent back surgery to fuse 10 vertebrae, from her lower back up to her neck, to correct her curved spine. I like to ask all of my people this. Neely Quinn: Thatâs good. Itâs one of those super important skills to have so thatâs another thing that Iâm trying to focus on. Neely Quinn: Perfect. [laughs] In the middle of the day I usually make noodles or something but I usually have a big glass of milk to try to add some protein. No, itâs just a normal pancake mix and it can be just add water or it can be milk and egg, like you can put milk and egg in it, and then itâs like 23 grams of protein per serving, I think. To prepare for the Tokyo Games, Condie left The A â the tough, tiny climbing gym she helped build in northeast Minneapolis â for Salt Lake City. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. I kind of learned how to jump around between holds and not be afraid to cut my feet and things like that so thatâs kind of how my style started, because I think I still climb a lot like that. Neely Quinn: Yeah, itâs hard to do that in a regular gym. Our hangboard is kind of set up about a foot away from the wall on this station that kind of stuck out from the wall, so I could put whatever my other hand was on the wall and just take a tiny bit of weight off that way. Thatâs what I was saying with the planches and the front levers. I think thatâs also in September, kind of around Innsbruck. Thanks again and Iâll talk to you soon. Kyra Condie: Yeah, so all of July and half of June, so that will be really fun. Kyra Condie becomes new Ocún ambassador. After her brilliant high school career at Oldham County, Kyra Elzy left the state to play basketball for Pat Summitt at Tennessee. Kyra Condie: Well, theyâre called Kodiak Cakes but theyâre freaking awesome. The first climb I knew a lot of people had topped and it was really not my style. Neely Quinn: No big deal. You only need to put on 20 pounds. It works a bunch of things. Itâs like, âJust climb! I kind of lost it a little bit. Kyra Condie: Yeah, Iâve even won the Youth Nationals twice for sport climbing, too, but bouldering is just kind of what I love. Iâve been trying to get better at stretching, but those are the other things Iâve been trying to add in. I hope you enjoy this interview and Iâll talk to you on the other side. Neely Quinn: Why do you think you did so well in Hueco, without really having acclimated? Youâre clearly good at trying hard. Iâm trying to like them and I do kind of but they still kind of scare me as far as foods go because I didnât like them for so long. Oh, so youâll warm up climbing and then youâll do a session, either campusing or fingerboarding, and then youâll climb for a whole session. How did you get up toâ¦â I was able to hang 30 pounds not too long ago. Neely Quinn: Yeah, or boulder as opposed to hangboard or campus. Kyra Condie: I donât usually time the rest but you get distracted at the gym, too, like you talk to your friends and things like that. The boys almost died I think, a little bit. So thank you very much and I wish you luck on your gap year and everything you have going this year. My back had a 72Â° curve. I did two days I think because I was here and there was this 15-meter wall. Even then I could only do it when I traveled so I did a pre-Nationals camp and I practiced speed then for two weeks before Nationals so those are the only times Iâve really practiced. I convinced somebody.â. It kind of varies but itâs really good. I try to be Zen. I might not be able to travel to competitions as much but I donât plan on getting weaker, I guess. She does the same thing every week with climbing, finger training, campusing, and some other strength training, and she spelled it all out in this interview. Every time I would go in I would try and repeat a lot of the boulders and make up new ones. I just work in a vet clinic here to get those 400 hours done. Thatâs cool. If you start climbing a lot and focused-climbing a lot, focused-ly, if that makes sense [laughs] and not just going into the gym and kind of talking to your friends and occasionally climbing, which is what a lot of people do. I try to get on the next boulder basically as soon as I feel completely rested from the last boulder so itâs usually three minutes. For how long, do you think? Itâs kind of like a blessing in disguise where you get the perspective that a lot of people never have. Why do you think you did so well in Hueco, without really having acclimated? I donât know. They work my core almost more than anything and I think they get your shoulders really well. I finished those this December, so in 2017, then in order to actually finish my degree at the University of Minnesota I needed 400 hours of work experience in the animal field so I decided to wait until I was done with classes so that I didnât have to take any time off of training or climbing and come to Utah because I love Salt Lake City. I probably do that, if I only boulder and do not do campusing or hangboarding, itâs maybe twice a week I would say. I think that in the right way, they absolutely can help. I usually try to do six different exercises and those other couple kind of vary. Do you want to take me through the years? Itâs annoying but itâs not at all debilitating. Basically my training would be leading up to going to try and climb something. We provide resources and information about training for routes, bouldering, finger strength, mental training, nutrition for climbers, and everything in between. Neely Quinn: So thank you very much and I wish you luck on your gap year and everything you have going this year. Kyra Condie: You know, thatâs kind of a hard – I donât know. Mine was called Idiopathic Scoliosis which basically means they donât know why I had it. I like Clif bars or really any type of bar. For how long, do you think? Itâs a lot less miserable, in my opinion. I had interviewed on video Carlo Traversi, Angie Payne, Paige Claassen, Jamie Emerson, and I was going to publish them as videos. It works a bunch of things. School Closings & Delays. I have a couple friends who swear by them and love them but theyâre just not my favorite. Every time, everyone is like, âWhat the heck?â, Yeah, like, âThatâs your back? I feel like itâs in my hands more than anything, is where I feel tired, or maybe my shoulders. Momentum Millcreek, for example, right now has probably around 11 V10s up and I think Iâve done them all. You know, thatâs kind of a hard – I donât know. Iâm a little afraid to do them because of my back. Neely Quinn: Yeah, it also seems like itâs probably good for competition, like to really learn how to be strong on day two. New Rockets coach Stephen Silas didn't talk a lot about James Harden and the rumors that he's unhappy in Houston on Thursday. ), and her diet. I really enjoyed that interview. Itâs almost not useful at all for rock climbing. Kyra Condie: Itâs hard to transition from outdoor climbing to indoor climbing but that was the one thing where I was like, âWoah, this improved!â. If itâs hurting on day two Iâll go, âOkay, maybe I should rest tomorrow.â Three days on, I think, is a really good way of being able to get the most out of the week, I guess is how I kind of came up with it? Youâre clearly good at trying hard. Letâs see. I would not say that. I mean, that takes a lot of strength I think. I never took a gap year after high school. So you have like a gap year. Once I was done with that play I missed climbing and then rejoined the team and thatâs when I really, like, I havenât stopped since then. I post about it like once a year on the anniversary of my back surgery. Those three, the snatches, the big move pull-through, and the small move pull-through are what I always do. Neely Quinn: So you feel like this is what you really notice the difference in your climbing with? So many people have finger injuries while theyâre campusing. Kyra has an aggressive and quick climbing style that has contributed to her success. Why are car tabs more expensive in Minnesota? Itâs just really good at building strength and we have a bunch of – it never changes. Neely Quinn: You do bouldering and sport climbing. Neely Quinn: Yeah, thatâs why I assumed you spent a lot of time there. My hope is to go to vet school, probably in Minnesota if I can get in, and Iâll probably apply this fall to hopefully get in for the next fall so I have this entire year, so all of 2018, and all of 2019 until the fall, hopefully, to just climb and focus on climbing and training. How many days would you say you just go in the gym and boulder? Brooke Raboutou went up against Margo Hayes, and pulled ahead with a time of 10.57. Does that affect – I mean, does that affect your climbing you think? The 2016 Mounds View High School graduate completed the long process of qualifying in early December at an international meet in Toulouse, France, where she … Kyra Condie: No, I think I covered everything I figured I would share in a training podcast. Not my home wall but it has a similar feel to the wall that I was climbing on in Minnesota and so Iâve spent a lot of time there. I finished those this December, so in 2017, then in order to actually finish my degree at the University of Minnesota I needed 400 hours of work experience in the animal field so I decided to wait until I was done with classes so that I didnât have to take any time off of training or climbing and come to Utah because I love Salt Lake City. Neely Quinn: Have you experimented with it? Kyra Condie: I do but I donât really like them. One thing I have done is Iâve stopped listening to music. âWhatever the record was for the fastest recovery from that surgery, she was going to break it.â. Kyra Condie: I think so, yeah. After I warm up with a half an hour or 45 minutes of climbing, Iâd go straight up to the campus board and I would do my entire campus workout, which I can get into later. A different doctor told Kyra that if she wanted to keep climbing, the surgery shouldnât stop her. I was either holding onto a rope with the other hand or putting my hand against the wall and just using friction, so it was probably somewhere between, when I first started, maybe 15 pounds and then it got down to 5 pounds. I needed to get out of my head. There was one kind of towards the top of my spine in the cervical vertebrae thatâs 25Â°, the one in the middle was the main one and that was the 72Â° one, and then it was kind of a 45Â° one at the bottom. There wasnât a gym to go to on bad weather days or anything. Donât tell too many people. Kyra Condie: I think itâs a little of a personality thing. I mean, maybe itâs not. I was like, âIs climbing cool?â [laughs] Things like that. Itâs still the best wall ever, in my opinion, even though I donât climb there anymore. Neely Quinn: Oh, thatâs an actual brand? Neely Quinn: Yeah, thatâs a really diverse year that you have coming up. Iâve basically been sticking to this for the last – not even year, probably. Kyra Condie: Yeah, and I think it makes campusing have – itâs less injury prone that way, too, and you have a better longevity in it. I think it helps a ton but itâs never been something that Iâve particularly had a weakness with and so I donât really want to mess with it, I guess is what I kind of think. I want to figure it out. Try harder.â [laughs] Itâs written on the wall. So I have a couple questions about the vet school thing, because vet school is pretty intense and being a vet is pretty intense. Then if you can get any of your plane tickets reimbursed or just win enough money that it covers the plane ticket, youâre basically profiting on the weekend. Overall, sheâs done extremely well and sheâs going to do some world circuit stuff. I had a list of 26 boulders that were all my favorite hard climbs and some of the ones that I hated, but itâs good to do the things you hate, [laughs] as I was saying. But yeah, I try not to pay attention to it. It varies a lot. Front levers are really, really hard for me. I think it helps a ton but itâs never been something that Iâve particularly had a weakness with and so I donât really want to mess with it, I guess is what I kind of think. Iâm sure there are a lot of vegetarians listening to this. How long does it take? Neely Quinn: Okay, so what are you plans for – you said maybe going to Spain, youâre not sure – the next year and a half? I donât know. Theyâll go down double and then go up a couple double. Iâve been trying but I canât. I know. I try to go through and do all the V10s, the V11, and then some of the 9s and 8s anyway, just to get a ton of climbing in during the day. I donât think anyone is as Zen as Nathaniel Coleman or something. Kyra Condie: It sometimes hurts me and I climb really fast, which I think might have something to do with it. It was a slab and I think my back was kind of hurting me on it. Itâs like, âYou just totally gave up on that climb. Thatâs one thing that Iâve done a lot. Kyra Condie: Well, once in every three-day cycle so itâs kind of in every three or four days. I have to think about that for a sec. Kyra Condie: Yeah, and I cook a lot. Otherwise I donât really use weights. Iâm not a huge component for myself for mental training. Not recently but a couple of years ago at a place called Maple Canyon. Great podcast! I canât do a muscle-up on rings. Cool. Kyra Condie: Which is my bad. Kyra Condie: Iâm definitely not much of a slab climber, but I prefer to have something that I feel like I can get some sort of bite on, like anything thatâs a better hold but on a worse angle, like a steeper angle, is definitely what I prefer. A year ago I couldnât do probably 1, 5, 7 I think. Kyra Condie: Yeah. That requires a lot of hours. Psicobloc pioneer Tim Emmett introduces U.S. Olympic climber Kyra Condie to the discipline of climbing high above water as they attempt one of the hardest deep-water solos in Vietnam. Neely Quinn: I mean, when you think about eggs theyâre pretty gross. Kyra Condie: That one I mostly do because itâs just the classic campus exercise. I try and aim for six seconds. Kyra Condie: Itâs really admirable, too. USA Climbing is headquartered there, allowing Condie to work with its coaches after many years of being self-taught. Then, Iâm planning on training for all of August when I get back because I get back at the very end of July, and focus and put all my energy into World Champs which is in Innsbruck in – whenever that is – September. That was perfect timing for Condie, who was two years into her animal science studies at the University of Minnesota after graduating from Mounds View High School. Kyra Condie: Yeah, theyâre kind of gross and restaurants kind of undercook them, in my opinion, a lot of times and it freaks me out. Climbing things like – if I donât like a climb, Iâll try to re-climb it anyway, even if I hate it, which is so hard to get myself to do sometimes because I feel like I must hate it for a reason, you know? Kyra Condie: I definitely prefer bouldering. Glad to be here. Copyright 2020 TrainingBeta | All Rights Reserved |, TBP 100 :: Kyra Condie’s Hangboard and Campus Board Training Program. Itâs really good and I put almonds on it and stuff. This year you got fourth in speed, seventh in sport, and youâre pretty good at sport climbing. Condie was invited to join the Vertical Endeavors team and did well, despite nagging pain in her back. âThereâs a lot of failure. I donât think so. Itâs really good for contact strength, especially. Neely Quinn: Theyâre like eggs and almond butter or something? Kyra Condie: Actually, I took a trip there probably five years ago now, four years ago, for six days and then other than that my only other day was the day of the Rock Rodeo, climbing things. Neely Quinn: Yeah. Theyâre amazing. People hate hangboarding because of repeaters and they have this horrible idea about hangboards.
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